The history of the salmon lords

Suldalslågen is one of the lifelines of the municipality, rich in history. Here you can read about when the salmon lords came to Suldal and how they influenced the municipality. It was common for Englishmen to come to Norway in the 1800s to fish for salmon. For them, it was a hobby and a sport, while Norwegian farmers fished for food. Farmers with salmon fishing rights could earn good money from the Englishmen.

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Walter and Alice Archer

In 1883, the couple Walter and Alice Archer were on a boat trip in Western Norway, searching for a salmon river. They found Suldalslågen, and after just one year, Walter Archer had bought the fishing rights for a full 40 years, from Roalkvam north of Suldalsvatnet all the way out to Jelsa! He protected the salmon, with the exception of Englishmen who wanted to fish with a fly, and the salmon stock in Suldalslågen increased.

The Archer couple settled at Rophaug in Sand and built the first so-called salmon castle. Eventually, James Hunter came and built Hiimsmoen, and Victor Campbell built Juvåsen. At Lunde in Suldalsosen, Montagu R. Waldo Sibthorp built the salmon castle Lindum. These magnificent buildings still stand prominently in the Suldal landscape, and Lindum has become a campsite for those who wish to visit and see the salmon castle up close.

Alice Archer was interested in photography, and thanks to her, we still have many pictures from their time in Suldal today. She was also responsible for the garden at Rophaug being one of the most beautiful in the area.

The Englishmen were well-liked by the people of Suldal; they spent a lot of money and became employers for many in the valley. They were upper-class people and maintained a certain standard, and many Suldal residents were employed as servants and rowers, among other things. However, the Suldal residents who served the Englishmen demanded one thing in their employment contract: they should have at least one day a week where they could eat something other than salmon!

Years passed, and Archer's lease was soon over. He then became concerned about two things: that overfishing of salmon would resume, and that the hydroelectric development of Lågen would affect the salmon. Norsk Hydro was, in fact, planning this hydroelectric development in 1908, and Archer went all the way to Prime Minister Knudsen with his concerns. He received no answer and died in 1917. He, along with relatives and other Englishmen, is buried in Sand cemetery.

Archer's lease expired in 1924, and after 40 years of protection, Suldalslågen had become a rich salmon river. Some say one could drive home entire horse-loads of salmon after the traps at Sandsfossen were emptied in the evening. There was a dispute over fishing rights, especially in the river mouth, and several lawsuits were necessary.

Tragedy

In 1904, teenage girl Viva Settle was visiting Suldal with her family. They were visiting Campbell at Juvåsen, and one day while they were down at Sandsfossen, a tragic accident occurred: Viva lost her footing, fell into the waterfall, and drowned. Hear her story here.

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Source: miljostatus-suldal.no

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Extra taxes: Today, you can read more about the history of Suldalslågen in the Salmon Studio, which is open during the summer season. You can try salmon fishing yourself and buy fishing licenses from the landowners. You can also experience the salmon in other ways through a salmon safari or river expedition at Mo Laksegard. You can also see the salmon on its journey up Hålandselva (which is protected from fishing) or Ullaelva (buy fishing licenses at inatur.no).